I have been dating a Mexico City resident for two years, and anyone who has met me knows how much I adore the city. As I sit on my couch listening to the soundtrack from “Coco” and drinking Mexican Hot Chocolate, I figure…. it’s about damn time I share my suggestions so you too can fall in love with this diverse, affordable destination! A long weekend would be an appropriate length of time for an introductory trip, but if you can make the trip 5-7 days, even better.

Comida

San Angel Inn: Make reservations. This place is pricey, but worth it. One of the best dinners I’ve ever had – don’t miss the flaming tableside “cafe diablo” with dessert (not served Sundays)! I also hear their brunch is to die for.

Gran Hotel Ciudad de México: The rooftop weekend brunch doesn’t take reservations so get there right before the restaurant opens and you’ll be fine! Includes mimosas and fresh juices, omelette bar, quesadilla bar, and more… all while admiring a stunning view of the Zocalo (main plaza) recognizable from the opening scene from the James Bond movie Spectre. Only available Sundays.

El Cardenal: Also excellent. Also doesn’t take reservations. Arrive early here too. Chocolate caliente is ON POINT and served with fresh-baked concha (shell-shaped breakfast pastries popular in Mexico City). If it is in season (summer months), order the Chiles en Nogada, an extremely unique and very delicious dish featuring a meat-stuffed poblano pepper smothered in a creamy walnut sauce and topped with pomegranate seeds. You’re welcome.

La Gruta: If you venture outside the downtown area to visit the pyramids, this place is a cool place to stop for lunch. It’s in a cave and beautifully decorated. Definitely touristy but if you want to have lunch after exploring the pyramids it’s a fun stop.

Azul: Shockingly well-priced, always delicious Mexican food in a beautiful setting (well, 3 beautiful locations in the city). Try the traditional mole and classic margarita, which are delightful. And save room to savor a cup (er… hollowed-out coconut) filled with chocolate caliente (get it made with water)!

Rosetta: Mediterranean-inspired fare in the prettiest little dining room that I ever did see. Beautiful plating. Lovely wine list. Accepts reservations.

Contramar: Haven’t been, but this place keeps popping up on the hot lists.

Quintonil: Same as above.

Pujol: Top-rated dining in the whole country. To be honest, I went with my boyfriend and another couple and although the tasting menu was inventive and beautifully presented, nothing was crave-worthy in a way that makes me want to go back.

Hostal de los Quesos: Cheap. Delicious. Tacos… will have you coming back for seconds (and thirds, and maybe even fourths – who’s judging?). Try the tacos “al pastor” with pork and pineapple and the horchata to drink. Or the chorizo tacos. And the pineapple agua fresca. I’m making myself hungry writing this. This place has decent cafe de olla, which is a special Mexican spiced coffee.

La Clandestina: Unmarked entrance to a palace of Mezcal. I haven’t been here yet, but it’s gotten rave reviews and my boyfriend and his friends enjoyed it when they went.

La Santa Gula: Charming, casual little garden cafe specializing in Maltese food. Definitely try the orzata, a sweet, iced almond beverage.

Pasteleria Esperanza: This isn’t a restaurant, but a bakery that sells really delicious, really cheap pastries. The conchas here are some of the best I’ve had, and I like to get them wrapped to bring home and eat the next morning with coffee to ease back into my life here. You can come through customs with packages of all kinds of food. Usually I bring back pastries, salsa, tortillas, and Oaxaca cheese. 🙂

Mercado Roma: Modern style food hall with many different vendors, including fruit juices, falafel, pizza, Asian, ice cream, Mexican, grilled options, etc. Kind of hipster and definitely a fun, young communal vibe.

Actividades

Xochimilco: This series of canals is all that remains today of the original lake on which the city was built. In centuries past, the waterways flowed all the way into the heart of downtown, and vendors used them to transport goods to market. Today, tourists replace trade goods as cargo on the trajineras (large wooden barges), and the waterway is host to a cacophony of sounds; trajinera captains call to each other, and vendors hock snacks, cervezas, and souvenirs from small boats. The cost of a two-hour ride on a trajinera is fantastically affordable for the experience, and you can kick back and enjoy the ambiance (and snap some super cool insta-worthy pics!)

Anthropology Museum: Fascinating artifacts illustrating centuries of Mexican civilization

Chapultepec: Beautiful palace overlooking the city

National Ballet: Stunning display of mariachi music and folkloric dance. It’s really incredible to see the differences between regional styles of music and dance. We lucked out and caught a performance at night in front of Chapultepec castle.

Pyramid Teotihuacan (Pyramid of the Sun and Pyramid of the Moon): We drove out early in the morning for a sunrise hot air balloon ride over the pyramids – beautiful and surprisingly affordable, all things considered.

Sábado market: there are different markets all over the city on the weekends, but especially on Saturdays. There’s also a very large handicraft market open every day, called Ciudadela Market. Prices can be bartered but are already very affordable!

Frida Kahlo Museum: Buy tickets in advance. Closed on Mondays. Kind of overrated IMHO

Otras cosas (other things)

With more than 8 million residents, Mexico City is a sprawling metropolis with the most dense traffic I have ever experienced (and I have lived in Orlando, Miami, and DC, so that is saying something!) so be sure to factor transportation time into your travel planning. Ubers are safe and affordable here. I have heard mixed reviews on public transport and taxis and I choose not to take them. The metro costs only pennies, so I understand it is highly trafficked by working Mexico City residents and have been advised to avoid during rush hour.

Mexico City weather is moderate almost year-round (aside from a few blisteringly hot afternoons each summer and a couple of weeks of extra-chilly winter mornings). Most hotels have central air and heating, but homes (read: AirBnBs) and restaurants do not. I refer to the light down Uniqlo jackets donned by seemingly every resident between sunrise and noon as “Mexico City jackets.” Get one here to stay warm and look like a local while you’re at it!

You may have heard scary things about the need to avoid drinking water in Mexico. It’s true – the locals don’t drink the water either… which is why you CAN drink water and consume ice in restaurants, as well as brush your teeth and bathe in the water. Just don’t drink right from the tap (the locals double boil anything before serving it)!

Have questions or suggestions for me? I’d love to hear from you! Until then… adios, amigos!

PS: I can’t figure out how to upload photos without completely screwing up my grid so here is an album to scroll through, and please follow me on Instagram at @jilliannesays!